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4C Timing Belt Procedure:

Replacing The Cam Belt And Water Pump On The Alfa 4C Coupe (Part 1)

Replacing the cam belt can be done with all the body panels still in place but we've removed the rear, right side wing to make it easier to see.

WORKSHOP TIME 6hrs

Cam belt kit 6000629434, water pump 60586222

Gaskets 55213959 and 71779194

If you would like to BOOK yourself in for a cam belt replacement the price of this service in our workshop is £668.40 (price of water pump NOT included).

Prop up the boot and pull off the plastic engine cover.

Undo the x3 10mm bolts to the breather pipe fixings...

...and unclip the connector at each end.

Unclip the vacuum pump hose.

Unplug the thermostat temp sensor.

Undo the x4 5mm allen bolts to the vacuum pump and move the pump to one side.

The inlet camshaft blanking plate has x3 10mm bolts.

The undertray is held by x14 T30 (Torx) screws.

The rear diffuser has x2 T30, x3 Phillips screws and x4 4mm allen bolts.

Unbolt the rear RIGHT side wheel and remove.

The rear RIGHT side wheel arch liner has x3 allen and x3 Phillips screws.

Where the rear wing joins the bumper there are x5 10mm nuts, remove the first x4 (the last one is in a tight corner).

The wings alloy support frame has x4 10mm bolts.

There's a T30 screw at the front of the wheel arch joining the side skirt...

....and x4 more in the 'door shut'.

In the top LEFT corner of the 'door shut' behind the weather seal is a 5mm allen bolt.

There's x2 T30 screws under the fuel filler flap to a plastic cover and one more underneath the cover.

Behind the filler above the filler neck is a 10mm bolt.

Lift the rubber weather seal around the right side of the boot and undo the T25 screw...

...and the other x4 along the edge of the black infill panel.

You can now easily access the fifth 10mm nut joining the rear wing to the bumper.

Carefully lift the wing away from the car (noting the rear end is sitting on the x5 bumper studs). The drain pipe for the fuel overspill is still connected so this will pull out with the wing.

With the wing out of the way you can now work on the engine.

Put a spanner on the 15mm nut to the auxiliary tensioner idler and rotate clockwise to take the tension out of the auxiliary belt so that the belt can be removed.

Undo the x4 T45 bolts to the auxiliary bottom pulley.

The auxiliary tensioner mounting bolt is a T47.

Using a T50 allen key with an extension bar undo the the auxiliary idler.

At the bottom of the engine support (large alloy side casting) are x3 13mm bolts and x1 15mm.

Undo the x2 lower 13mm bolts to the alternator (just above the oil filter).

Take out the oil pumps 10mm bolt and replace it with the timing tool locating pin.

Turn the crank clockwise with a 19mm spanner until it's align with the crank locking tool then secure with a T45 bolt.

Replacing The Cam Belt And Water Pump On The Alfa 4C Coupe (Part 2)

The main objective now is removing the cast alloy side support that covers the cam belt

RETURN TO PART 1

Jack the engine up enough to take the weight off of the engine mounts.

Undo the 15mm nut and bolt to the right side engine mount stabiliser bar.

Then the x2 15mm bolts on top of the engine mount...

...and x3 18mm nuts.

The alternator has x2 10mm bolts to a plastic covering.

The last alternator bolt is 13mm, once unbolted just lay the alternator down.

The cam belt protective plastic covering has x5 5mm allen bolts. To the right of the side cover unclip the pipe and electric trunking so that the cover can be removed.

The last bolts to the alloy side support are a 13mm...

....and x3 15mm.

You can now remove the alloy support.

If the exhaust camshaft doesn't align with the cam locking tool, release the crank shaft locking tool and rotate the crank clockwise 180° then lock it back up. You should now be able to lock up the exhaust camshaft.

Next lock up the inlet camshaft.

Undo the 12mm bolt to the cam belt tensioner and remove. Take off the crank locking tool so you can remove the cam belt.

The cam belt idler has a 15mm bolt.

Undo the 30mm caps on the camshaft pulleys.

Loosen the exhaust camshaft pulley so it can turn freely (T55 bolt) but take off the inlet pulley to gain access to the water pump.

The water pump has x2 6mm allen bolts.

Put a tray on the floor under the water pump to catch the coolant as you prise the pump off.

Clean any residue and dry around the contact area where the pump has been lifted.

We tend to apply a bead of gasket sealant around the 'O' ring of the new water pump. Bolt on the new water pump.

When replacing the cam belt tensioner the lug on the support plate locates between the fork on the tensioner, the fixing nut slides so just TACK the tensioner on for now.

Bolt on the new cam belt idler and the inlet camshaft pulley (allowing the pulley to spin freely).

Loop on the new cam belt noting the 'DIRECTIONAL' markings.

Using a long handled FLAT head screwdriver rotate the base of the tensioner so that the needle....

....points to the hole on the tensioner fork, then tighten the mounting bolt.

Tighten up both the cam shaft pulleys then take off all the locking tools.

Rotate the crank clockwise x2 full rotations (the belt and pulleys should all move together) then put all the locking tools back on to ensure everything is align.

Remove all locking tools.

Bolt back on the blanking plate and vacuum pump using new gaskets.

Top up the coolant tank to the MAXIMUM level.

You will need to bleed the system so undo the 8mm bleed screw...

...until no air but just coolant escapes.

Then pressure test the cooling system up to x1 BAR (14 psi) to check there's no leakage from the water pump.

Top up the coolant to MAX and reasemble the car.

 

4C Bolt Tightening Information:

Coming...

How to select performance camshafts:

When selecting a performance camshaft, consider the use for which the vehicle will be required.
We all know the claims: 20 BHP extra. This sounds great – but think! These automotive manufacturers can’t be that silly to disregard 20 BHP by changing a camshaft.
Ask yourself! Where is this 20 BHP? Probably not where you will ever use it at 7500 rpm. Well, probably we will use it, occasionally; it would be nice to have in reserve.
Hold on! In this world there is no such thing as a “free meal”. What’s the possible trade-off of this 20 BHP? It could be a loss of 10 BHP at 2500 rpm. This means, each time you accelerate through 2500 rpm, you could lose 10 BHP. This to me, doesn’t sound too
good.


SOLUTION

Be conservative! Don’t over-cam your engine. Choose your cam for the correct application. Consider! Fit a milder cam and increase
your power by 10 BHP at 3500 rpm.
Remember! You get this 10 HP every time you accelerate through 3500 rpm. Multiply this by 10 HP each time you drive through 3500 rpm then deduct the times you reach 7500 rpm.
I’m sure you will find more horsepower on the 3500 rpm side than the 7500 rpm calculation.

 

CAMSHAFT SELECTION

You will see that each camshaft has a Part No and Phase No. The Part Number designates the make and model/the duration period of the inlet camshaft/the valve lift of the inlet camshaft and whether the camshaft profile is hydraulic. So if we look at the Ford 1300/1600 CVH RS Turbo XR3i XR2 Camshaft Data Sheet we see the following:- FORC/206/420/H PH2

FORC Specifies the make and engine type
260 Specifies the duration
420 Specifies the lift on the inlet valve
H Specifies that the camshaft is designed for hydraulic cam followers
PH2 Specifies the type of use the camshaft is recommended for SELECTING YOUR CAMSHAFT
All the camshafts in this brochure have a Phase Number after the Part Number. Phases 1 to 5 will help you to select the camshaft that meets your requirements.
PHASE 1 (PH1) ROAD CAMSHAFT
This is a camshaft that would be used for road use and will normally run with standard carb or injection system and can be fitted without additional tuning equipment. It is meant for town use and will have a smooth tick-over and will give its increase in power in the low midrange.
Other modifications to the engine will increase the performance of this cam.

PHASE 2 (PH2) FAST ROAD CAMSHAFT
This is a camshaft for increasing mid-range of the engines and is meant for mild competition use and where the driver requires an
increase of power in the mid-range without suffering too much loss of power in the low-range. The tick-over will be heavier than a standard
engine. The fuel system may have to be modified and the cam will work to its optimum with modifications to the cylinder head, inlet/exhaust system and possibly the management system.
PHASE 3 (PH3) FAST ROAD RALLY
This type of camshaft is really the limit for normal road use. It will require fuel system and management modifications. It will have a noticeable loss of low-down power and the tick-over will be heavy. For competition use, where mid-range power is important and road
use where the maximum power is required.
PHASE 4 (PH4) TARMAC RALLY SPRINT RACE CAMSHAFT
This camshaft is for competition use only and can be considered as a _ race cam. It could be used on the road, but would not be suitable
for use in traffic. It will have a very heavy tick-over and there will be a noticeable loss of power below 3500 rpm. Its main use is for a torque race cam, giving a strong surge of power in the upper range power, yet still having the ability to floor the throttle below
5000 RPM and pull cleanly away. It will require modifications to the carb/injection system, cylinder head and induction exhaust system.
PHASE 5 (PH5) FULL RACE CAMSHAFT
For race use only. Not suitable for road or rally use,. Little power below 5000 RPM . Will have virtually no idle and will require carb/injection, exhaust/induction., cylinder head and engine management modifications.

MATERIAL TYPE (PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFTS)
You will note that we have a material description at the end of the camshaft specification. This informs of the following:
Billet
This means that the camshaft has been turned from a round steel bar and will normally be nitrided after grinding.
We use this method for low volume production and, due to the work involved, they are always more expensive than cast blanks
Blank
Unless specified, the camshaft is made from a chilled iron casting. This is the best material for camshafts, as it has far superior wear
characteristics than any other material.
REPRO
A regrind on an existing camshaft, only suitable for mild grinds on existing chilled iron camshafts. If you regrind case hardened steel
camshafts you will remove the case hardening. We only regrind chilled iron cams, but prefer to supply new units

INFORMATION ON CAMSHAFT MATERIAL


Camshaft material, i.e., what the camshaft is made from, is the most important detail in stopping premature wear of performance
camshafts.
There are various materials that camshafts are manufactured from:-


CAST IRONS


1.HARDENABLE IRON
This is
 Grade 17 cast iron with an addition of 1% chrome to create 5 to 7% free carbide.
After casting, the material is flame/or induction hardened, to give a
 Rockwell hardness of 52 to 56 on the C Scale.
This material was developed in the 1930’s in America as a low-cost replacement for steel camshafts and is mainly suited in applications
where there is an excess of oil, i.e., camshafts that run in the engine block and that are splash-fed from the sump. (This is the material
that the Ford OHC camshafts were manufactured from).
It is not the most suitable material for performance camshafts in OHC engines.
As a company, we only use this material for performance camshafts if the camshaft is splash-fed in the sump.

2.SPHEROIDAL GRAPHITE CAST IRON KNOWN AS SG IRON
A material giving similar characteristics to hardenable. Its failing as a camshaft material is hardness in its cast form, i.e., Rockwell 5,
which tends to scuff bearings in adverse conditions. The material will heat treat to 52 to 58 Rockwell C. This material was used by Fiat
in the 1980’s.
3.CHILLED CHROME CAST IRON
Chilled iron is Grade 17 cast iron with 1% chrome. When the camshaft is cast in the foundry, machined steel moulds the shape of the
cam lobe are incorporated in the mould. When the iron is poured, it hardens off very quickly (known as chilling), causing the cam lobe
material to form a matrix of carbide (this material will cut glass) on the cam lobe.
This material is exceedingly scuff-resistant and is the only material for producing quantity OHC performance camshafts.

 


CONCLUSION OF CAST CAMSHAFTS


When purchasing a camshaft, enquire which material the camshafts are produced from. A chilled iron camshaft may be more expensive,
but its resistance to wear in all conditions, far exceeds any other type of cast iron.

 STEEL CAMSHAFTS


1.CARBON STEEL – EN8/EN9
Used mainly in the 1930 to 1945 period and is currently used for induction hardened camshafts in conjunction with roller cam followers,
due to the through-hardening characteristics of the material.
2.ALLOYED STEELS – EN351 AISI 8620 and EN34 etc
Used by British Leyland in the A Series and B Series engine and best when run against a chilled cam follower.
3.NITRIDING STEEL – EN40B
The best steel for camshafts. When nitrided it gives a surface hardness and finish similar to chilled iron.
We used this when replacing chilled iron camshafts in competition engines. This material is used on several of the current F1 engines.


CONCLUSION


In general, steel is a good camshaft material. However, the type of steel has to be matched with the
 cam follower it runs against, as different grades of steel have different scuff characteristics. Be careful when buying camshafts without specifications or material information.


GENERAL CONCLUSION OF CAMSHAFT MATERIAL


This has been a very simplified explanation of camshaft materials, based on over 38 year’s experience. It may assist you to ask the
correct questions when purchasing performance camshafts.

Whether you buy cams from us or someone else we hope that you get the best cam for your needs. We aim at supplying many cam options from the highest quality,the most reputable  manufacturers-

 

-Newman Cams and Colombo and Bariani offered by Alfissimo International. 

 

copyright-Newman cams

 

 

Proper alignment of 164 models 

Alfa 164 Technical Service Bulletin 21.94.01

 

  •   Information: Alignment Specifications for 164

 

  •   Models: 1991 thru 1995 164 All
  •   Date: 10/14/94

 

  •   The alignment specifications for all model year 164's have been revised and simplified.

 

  •   1991-1995 164 ALL

 

  •   Front Camber -1.1 a to -2.4
  •   Front Caster - + 1.0 to + 2.6
  •   Front Total Toe - 0mm to -2mm
  •   Rear Camber - +0.1 o to -1.8
  •   Rear Total Toe - +4mm to +6mm

 

  •   NOTE: When running a larger wheel/tire combo 16"+
  •   Front Total Toe - 0mm to -2mm
  •   Rear Total Toe - 0mm to -2mm

 

  •   Please, update all of the 1991 & 1994 164 Service Manuals in your dealership by makeing the corrections within Group 21 on pages 21-12, 21-13, 21-15, 21-27, 21-28, 21-29. Please refer to the attached sample page.
  •   The locations for the changes are called out by this little pencil--->
  •   ALSO: The statements "Values refer to static load vehicle" and "For vehicles enuipped with spacers between engine support frame and bodywork" will no longer be used. In the 1991 164 Service Manual the "PITCH ANGLE" is CASTER ANGLE
  •   This T.S.B. supersedes all previous publications including specifications found in service manuals.